Nerua : Bilbao, Spain

I’m embarrassed to admit that I had lived here for more than a decade without ever eating at Nerua, Josean Alija’s starred restaurant in Bilbao. Basque Country has more than its fair share of Michelin stars, and wayyyyy more good places to eat on top of that, and it’s just hard sometimes to get to them all! I was finally able to visit Nerua and I have to say that it totally surprised me, in the best way.

I think you can already see from the first two amuses that Nerua’s chef isn’t necessarily out to blow your mind with his wild plating and technique. Instead, he opts for the pursuit of the exquisite. The honoring of tradition. And the worship of the best of the best product. I mean, just look at that little bite on the top right…that’s a grillo, a classic Bilbao pintxo, but made with the utmost care and the tiniest, most delicate ingredients, like that purple Zalla onion. Gorgeous.

Nerua is tucked inside Bilbao’s iconic Guggenheim Museum, and it’s a lovely reflection of the museum next to it: Basque tradition meets cutting-edge culinary artistry. Led by Michelin-starred Chef Josean Martínez Alija, this restaurant transforms local, seasonal ingredients into dishes that are as visually stunning as they are delicious. With a focus on purity and flavor, Nerua offers an experience that’s both deeply rooted in the land and boldly forward-thinking.

You can see it in the menu. This is a dish of the first-of-the-season artichokes, served in an aromatic broth with black olive.

If you go, I highly recommend the wine pairing. There were some real shockers in there, surprising wines from small local producers and limited edition ones (oxidized, sparkling, a bit of everything!) from the bigger local producers. It added a lot to our meal.

I haven’t really made it public, but I am so obsessed with Basque spinach. I receive veggies to my front door from a local farmer every week, and the spinach is some of the most tender I have ever tried. This dish of spinach featured an almondy broth and was wayyyy tastier than it may seem at first glance.

Josean Martínez Alija is a chef that sits firmly in the camp of the Basque star club. Just like the rest of them, Josean is known for his innovative approach to cooking and his dedication to seasonal, locally-sourced ingredients. Unlike all of them, he has an obsession with simplicity and a focus that makes his cuisine unique. I mean, look at the above dish. Have you ever heard of cabbage paired with truffle? It was so good.

Hailing from León but based in Bilbao, Josean trained under culinary legends like Martín Berasategui and Ferran Adrià. His resume is packed with highlights, including stints at top restaurants like Martin Berasategui, El Bulli, and the restaurant at Hotel Ercilla. In 2000, he won first place in Spain’s prestigious Young Chefs Championship, a competition designed to spotlight rising talent in Basque and Spanish cuisine.

Since then, Josean has risen to the chef at Nerua, the Michelin-starred restaurant inside the Guggenheim Museum Bilbao. Known for its minimalist, ingredient-focused dishes, Nerua has earned a spot among Spain’s top dining destinations. Josean’s style is all about “aroma, beauty, texture, and flavor,” blending modern techniques with the essence of Basque culinary traditions.

As you can see from the dishes above, Josean is takes simple ingredients to an art form, creating a unique style that feels both innovative and deeply rooted in Basque culture. His minimalist, creative approach made this meal so unexpectedly great!

The lovely dining room looks out over the Nervion estuary. It’s wide open, a single room, that starts out quiet and gets louder and louder as the wine flows and diners get warmed up.

Man, this dish was so good. Full disclosure—there was an oyster before this, smoked and with anchovy pil pil sauce, that we ate too quickly to take a picture of. Oops! However, this dish of “spider crab souffle” was equally impressive. The perfect, creamy eggs hid a bed of delicious txangurro below.

How could you not love this one? A tartar-caviar combo with a twist—Iberian pork meat instead of beef. Pork is Spain’s red meat, and the Iberico race’s meat is so fine and marbled, it stands up to this treatment deliciously.

This one is a surf-and-turf like I had never tried—lobster nestled next to “coquelet frito”, aka fried poussin or young chicken, with a fragrant saline broth.

Chefs have a soft spot around these parts for red mullet, which is usually served in its little tiny form, not all grown and full size like in the states. This one is fried, served in a carrot curry sauce. I loved how some of the seafood was given the unctuous, comfort food treatment here.

Txakoli that isn’t what you think it is…

Pork belly with pickled vegetables was the last dish…we were quite full at this point, but I appreciated that the last dish wasn’t

Desserts were simple and, just like the salty dishes, a tribute to Basque tradition, cuisine, and tastes. Look how gorgeous these bollos de mantequilla are!

Overall, Nerua was a pleasant surprise. It wasn’t just a parade of starry dishes—it was a well-thought-out tribute to local products and tradition in a very refined setting. Plus, you can get a tasting menu for under €100, which is getting more and more rare around these parts!

Nerua Guggenheim Bilbao
Abandoibarra Etorb., 2
48001 Bilbo, Bizkaia
+34 944 00 04 30
www.neruaguggenheimbilbao.com