{RECIPE} How to Make a Gilda, San Sebastián’s Most Iconic Pintxo

If you step into a bar in the Basque Country and see only one pintxo on offer, chances are it’s the Gilda. Despite its simplicity—a toothpick spear of guindilla pepper, cured anchovy, and green olive—this pintxo has become a symbol of Basque culinary culture.

A Pintxo with a Legendary Origin

The Gilda’s fame extends beyond its delicious taste. Named after Rita Hayworth’s sultry character in the 1946 film Gilda, this pintxo embodies the same characteristics: salty, spicy, and bold. Some urban legends even claim it to be the very first pintxo, often tying its origins to San Sebastián’s historic Casa Vallés (you can read more about its history and the history of pintxos inThe Book of Pintxos).

While the exact origins may be shrouded in mystery, one thing is certain: the Gilda has been gracing Basque bartops since the 1920s. Over the decades, its clever flavor combination has made it a staple of the region’s pintxo culture.

The Secret to the Perfect Gilda

Making an authentic Gilda at home is easy, provided you choose the right ingredients. Here’s how to ensure your Gilda matches the ones served in the best Basque bars:

1. Guindilla Pepper: Look for guindillas that are thin, delicate, and smooth, with a mild heat that doesn’t overpower the other ingredients.

2. Anchovies: Opt for high-quality cured anchovies with no visible bones. Their umami-rich saltiness is the backbone of the Gilda. I made an extensive video about this if you haven’t seen it.

3. Olives: Use fresh, firm green olives with a subtle brininess to balance the dish.

4. Extra-Virgin Olive Oil: A drizzle of fresh, high-quality olive oil ties everything together with its fruity richness.

You can watch me make it here:

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Which toothpick to use for pintxos?

Choose your toothpick wisely. While flat toothpicks were originally used to make pintxos, both the size and the aesthetic complexity of the pintxo have evolved since then. The best pintxo toothpick is around 4 inches (10 cm) long and has only one pointed end, which is used to pierce the ingredients.

What is a guindilla pepper, anyway?

The most celebrated guindillas, a type of pepper in the Capsicum frutescens species, are grown in and around the village of Ibarra and begin to appear in Basque markets at the beginning of summer. They are a bright, verdant green, with smooth, tender skin, and can be anywhere from 2 to 6 inches (5 to 15 cm) long. In season, fresh guindillas are typically flash-fried or preserved for use year-round, and they are a vital addition tomany traditional pintxos, such as the Gilda. The closest substitution would be pickled banana peppers, although their texture and flavor are somewhat different.

So….are you ready to take on the Gilda yourself?

Below, you’ll find a recipe for the perfect Gilda, from The Book of Pintxos. On egin!

photo by Simon Bajada

How to make a Gilda

Makes 4

8 pickled guindilla peppers (see below)
8 green manzanilla olives, pitted
4 anchovy fillets packed in olive oil, preferably
Cantabrian Good-quality extra-virgin olive oil for drizzling

Cut the stems off the peppers. Cut each pepper crosswise in half. With a long toothpick, pierce one olive through its center, followed by 2 pieces of pepper. Add an anchovy, threading it onto the toothpick in an S shape. Add 2 more pieces of pepper and finish with another olive. Repeat with the remaining ingredients to make 3 more Gildas.

Serve at room temperature on a platter, drizzled generously with olive oil.

Want more recipes from Basque Country?

Get my first book, Basque Country, here: https://www.amazon.com/Basque-Country-Culinary-Journey-Paradise/dp/157965777X/

Get The Book of Pintxos here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/157965987X

Thanks! Let me know if you have questions in the comments!