Pickling Guindillas

I am no longer capable of imagining a world without guindillas. 

Fresh, they appear each spring on the counters of pintxo bars, in bowls that signal their availability. Sometimes, but not often, accompanied by a hand-written or Microsoft Word sign that says "hay guindillas". 1 out of 10 fresh guindillas are spicy, and if I had a nickel for every theory on which are the spicy ones, I'd have, like, $1. The big ones. The small ones. The skinny ones. The only thing I've found to be remotely fact-based is the ratio of spicy to non-spicy changes as the season stretches on.

The rest of the year, there's pickled guindillas. These are ubiquituous, as one of the main ingredients on a famous pintxo, on a notorious mini-sandwich of tuna, anchovy and pepper, and all the way to the new posh eateries in town that serve it in a mayonnaise on some farm-raised hoity-toity hamburger. Plus they're just amazing popped into your mouth around 7pm with a glass of red vermouth.

And they're SUPER easy to make yourself. Look:

pickled guindillas

• green, fresh guindillas
• water
• vinegar
• salt
• bay leaf

Blanch guindillas for one minute in boiling water. Meanwhile, in another pot, boil a mixture of 60% vinegar and 40% water with two bay leaves for 10 minutes.

Place peppers in jars, covering them with the vinegar water mixture, and throw in a large pinch of salt. It's not necessary but I usually put the jars lid down while they cool. Allow them to pickle for about a month for best flavor.

peppers of spain: la guindilla

One of the best things about being here is having access to the produce that dreams are made of. Whether it's a chicken that tastes like chicken, or a brussel sprout that bursts with flavor, it's a joy that I never take for granted. Even more exciting than the quality, though, is when you can get your hands on stuff that doesn't even exist in the United States.

Meet the guindilla.

The peppers of Spain, while almost never spicy, are all very unique and form a backbone of the cuisine in all the regions of the country.  This guindilla's closest cousin available stateside is probably the Pimiento de Padrón.  The majority of the bars here in Donosti have a ración, or large plate, of guindillas on the menu. In their young form, these small, slender green peppers are fried in screaming hot oil, tossed with sea salt immediately, and served up just like that, occasionaly accompanied by a sauce or aioli.

The fun of the guindilla is that every ten or twelve peppers, you get one that burns pretty fiercely.  This means that some of the population here doesn't dare order a plate, but for an American palate like mine, it means a chance to feel some of that capsicum heat that I miss so much. Guindillas are also widely used in their vinegar-packed, pickled form.  One of Donosti's most emblematic pintxos includes the guindilla. These aren't spicy, but they're another delicious variation on this very special pepper.

the gilda

In San Sebastián, Spain, there is huge gothic Cathedral nestled near la Parte Vieja. Surrounding it is a plaza, more often than not filled with children playing, teenagers on lunch break, and adults taking a cafe con leche. To the south, a pedestrian promenade stretches out, lined with cafes and stores. One of these bars is the almost-70-year-old Casa Valles, the purported origin of 'La Gilda', the  pintxo most emblematic of this food-obsessed city.  

The story goes that as the bar was evolving from a sort of vending point for the owner's wines to a full-on taberna, they were in the habit of offering an assortment of olives, anchovies (which are worlds away from the kind Americans are accustomed to), and guindilla peppers, a popular variety of vinegar-packed capsicum.

Purportedly, one of the bar's regular customers (nicknamed Txepetxa, which is chochín in castellano, or the winter wren in English) began to combine the three on a toothpick, beginning a city's love affair with the Gilda. The name comes from a Rita Hayworth character, so derived because both were "green, salty, and a little spicy".  An irresistible combination.

I'm not sure where to source these guindillas here in the United States, but I broke out the jar I brought home last year when we had some friends over for dinner. The combination is one of those magic ones that exceeds the sum of its parts...the anchovies have an almost cheesy flavor and texture, tempering the vinegary bit of the peppers.  It's a perfect app, best served at room temperature. I used Ortiz anchovies, a high-quality importer from Spain. That part is super important, folks...don't do this at home without some good anchovies.

the gilda

2 guindillas
1 anchovy filet
1 green olive, pitted

First, take the guindillas and wrap them with the anchovy filets.

Second, pierce them with a toothpick.

To finish, add an olive.

Serve at room temperature (and I like to drizzle with some good olive oil).

la gilda

2 guindillas
50 gramos de anchoas
50 gramos de aceitunas verders 

MODO DE PREPARACIÓN:

El primer paso será, tomar las Guindillas y envolverlas con los filetes de Anchoas.

Como segundo paso, pincharlas con un palillo.

Para finalizar, agregar en el palillo, una Aceituna.

Servir a temperatura ambiente.