find me.

I like you.
i'm reading.
  • Infinite Jest
    Infinite Jest
This form does not yet contain any fields.
    Powered by Squarespace
    i'm marti.

    Thanks for coming. This is me —what I'm doing, loving, and, most importantly, eating. I hope you enjoy.

    i'm saying.
    i'm seeing.

    Juanito Kojua : The Parte Vieja Classic

    Do you ever just have that feeling where you are like, 'I need a break from all these pintxos, and honestly, I just want some emulsified fish fat and a value bottle of Rioja' ?

    Oh, that's not normal? Oops.

    Well, if that feeling should ever strike you, then Juanito Kojua is a great place to head.  This is an Old Town classic in San Sebastián, the kind of place that always comes up in discussions about where to sit down and dine in the old part.  From the decor of the dining room, the kind of stuff hipster garage sale dreams are made of, to the honest, parsley-driven sauces on each dish, this place is authentic. I give you example A, our off-the-menu and off-the-chain dish of hongos.

    I had never been to Juanito Kojua, a gaping hole in my culinary knowledge of San Sebastián, until my brother (look for his upcoming memoir, How To Live in a Van) came for a visit. We were wandering the streets of the Old Part, during this unseasonably warm fall, looking for a dinner place.

    On a Tuesday. And unless you are a drrrty rapper with a BFF named Drake, nothing much gets cooked on a Tuesday.  We were stuck between Juanito and Gandarias, another standard, albeit one I knew too well. Juanito it was.

    The beauty of this place is, essentially, that it follows the rules. I love light, molecular, or Frenchified touches as much as the next person. Give me a well-made vinaigrette with thyme and shallots, give me foam, give me spices.  But if you are in town to find out how the real game of Basque cuisine is played, the name of the game is Juanito.

    The cook at the helm, Juan Iturralde, is an examplary Donostiarra who took over the restaurant in the 1950s and made it a lunch spot focusing on fresh, seasonal produce and honest cooking.  And, may I point out perhaps the most glaringly real fact here? You don't stay open for 70 years in San Sebastián, through winters and summers, if locals don't frequent your restaurant.


    We ordered the cogote de merluza, or fish head, and it was incredibly moist and perfect, served in its sofrito of garlic.  Our waitress dutifully reminded us, eyeing her two foreign diners with suspicion, that this was a HEAD of a FISH. Yep, we know, bring it on.

    We finished the meal of with some lamb chops, checking the box off for a spot that I had heard so much about.  You pay for quality, and the best way to go is with some idea of what the specialties are.  In this case, I would keep my eye out for anything off-the-menu, as well as the kokotxas and the cogote. At which point, I would sit back and revel in the sheer Basque-ness.


    pintxo astearteak (tapa tuesdays)

    la espiga:::la delicia (anchovies, hard-boiled egg, mayo, parsley-onion-garlic vinaigrette)

    San Martzial Kalea, 48::Donostia-San Sebastián

    This is not just any pintxo.  This is a classic among locals of Donosti, and all the more interesting because its fame is in no way expressed on any menu or any blog. Except the yearlong exploration of Spain's best food cities, 365, by the same kind friends who took me to try it for the first time.


    The Zinemaldi Vermuteke

    My life is a mess, and sometimes beautiful things come out of it.

    One of my favorite 'initiatives' that I've been involved with in San Sebastián has been The International Society for the Preservation and Enjoyment of Vermut.  Why? Because it was born out of real passion, a passion for a sweet, bitter, forgotten beverage. Because I started it with one of my best friends in my home away from home.  Because it brings happiness to a ton of people, and in a different spot with different vibes and surprises every month.

    It's a vermuteke, and behind-the-scenes, it is a lot of work. Coordinating with some incredible artisans, from the Rioja to Cataluña to Galicia, crafting looks and coming up with never-done-before ideas, and all to celebrate something that I just really like.  We shop, we prep, we promote, and we sweat, all up to the last moment when we slip on our slightly coordinated dresses and put on our hostess faces. 

    That is absolutely the moment when a sip of vermouth tastes best.

    Here is a video of September's vermuteke...I hope it inspires you to attend, or at the very least, to pour a vermouth.

    Vermuteke Zinemaldi Edition from Vermut Society on Vimeo.

    The classy poster I drew up:


    pintxo astearteak (tapa tuesdays)

    bar narrika:::patatas bravas (fried potatoes with spicy sauce )

    Calle de Narrica, 16 ::Donostia-San Sebastián

    I have friends who swear that these are the second-best patatas in town (after this spot). And they are pretty dang good, for those times when you can't be bothered to displace yourself from the old part.  

    Wow, my English is getting pretty special. Displace yourself. Wow.



    A Basque Pantry : Pantori

    There's a new red awning in town.

    Pantori is a store recently opened in the heart of San Sebastián, but it's been over a year in the making. It first took form as a different-product-every-day internet flashsale, which featured only the best hand-selected artisan food products across Spain at sweet prices. In fact, you can still sign up to receive these daily offerings delivered to your door.

    This summer, however, the team behind Pantori opened their first bricks-and-mortar spot, which has turned out to be one of the most lovingly fashioned gourmet shops in town. From potato chips to cured meats to vermouth, this shop has some deliciousness going on. A stop in can result in heavy sampling, a conversation with a certain curly-haired Basque girl, or even a fortuitious tasting and chat with a local artisan. 

    I asked the team at Pantori to give me their top three favorite finds that they have on the shelves currently, and these are the (resounding) responses I got. They would make quite the merienda, if I do say so myself:

    Castillo de Canena aceite ahumado ::: Gotta love a product with beautiful packaging and an even more attention-grabbing taste.  This cold-infused olive oil tastes of wood smoke, and frankly, reminds me of my favorite restaurant. If you're going to have more than one olive oil at home, this is the one.

    Moncedillo yogur de oveja ::: Moncedillo, a small producer in Castilla y León, crafts artisan dairy products from raw sheep's milk. They milk and craft on the same day, in small batches, for utmost quality and the best taste. The folks at Pantori were especially enamored of the yogurt.

    Cerveza artesana de País Vasco ::: Microbrews are picking up steam in Basque Country, and in Spain in general. Some are Basque only due to their owner's location, some are kinda gross, but some are beers that deserve a closer look (and several bottles' worth of investigation). Example? Basqueland Brewing Project's line, which is available at Pantori, as long as you beat the crowds.

    If you are in San Sebastián, looking for a snack with authentic local flavor, a beer to grab for the seawall, or an edible souvenir to take home, Pantori is smack in the middle of town and a one-stop shop for carefully curated deliciousness.


    Reina Regente / Erregina Erregentearen Kalea, 4