The summer is coming to an end, although judging by the weather here in San Sebastián, it's finally beginning. September here means, sun, return of the locals, film festival, and the best tomatoes of the year. September also means the triumphant return to our apartment in Gros, a little haven of happiness. After living the romantic ceiling-high windows and crooked wooden floor (and dreary kitchen and cockroach-filled) European dream of living in the Old Town, it's back to the real world.

If you know me at all, you can guess what happens when I spend two months without a kitchen to call my own. Let's just say I made up for lost time my first weekend in the apartment....preserves, lasagna, soups, stock, bolognese, cookie dough, and this tomato marmalade. Spread it on some bread, use it as a pizza base, or pair it with The World's Best Cheese, burrata. 

tomato marmalade

• 3 lbs roma tomatoes

• a pinch of chili flakes

• two garlic cloves, minced

• 1/4 + 1/2 cup olive oil

• 4 tbsp sugar

• 1/4 cup tomato paste

• 3 tbsp balsamic vinegar

• 2 tbsp white wine vinegar

• 1 tbsp fresh thyme

• 1 bay leaf

• salt and pepper to taste

Peel tomatoes by blanching after scoring with an X on the bottom of each tomato. Shock in ice water and peel skins. Quarter tomatoes and remove seeds. Arrange on a baking sheet (preferably lined with something) and drizzle with 1/4 cup olive oil. Season with chili flakes, salt, pepper. Sprinkle garlic and half the sugar over top. Bake at 200 degrees for four hours.

In a skillet heat 1/2 c olive oil over medium heat. Cook tomato paste for a few minutes and add sugar, stirring. Add vinegar to deglaze, stirring. Add tomatoes, thyme, bay, salt and 2 tbsp of olive oil. Reduce heat and cook for about five more minutes.

Remove bay and transfer marmalade to jars. Refrigerate.