How Much Should A Pintxo Cost?

There it is. So innocent looking. Saliva inducing. Juicy lobster, resting atop cava aioli, on perfectly toasted bread. This pintxo has won the hearts of many, along with a permanent place on the menu at one of San Sebastián's bars of note, Zeruko.

And I don't know if, in good conscience, I can ever taste it again.

Last night, I engaged in a good old-fashioned pintxo hop with some friends. One of our stops was Zeruko, and a moment of 'this can't be happening' came about when they brought us the bill. This sweet, innocent piece of bread?

€7.50.  In US dollars, that is $9.75. For a piece of bread, measuring about 4.5 inches long and 2 inches wide. I know it's lobster, but come ON.

This brings about the bigger question: WHAT THE F@#$? 

No, kidding. The bigger question is: What is happening to San Sebastián? This small snippet of a night out in the old town is a hint, I beileve, of what's to come. Prices keep going up, bars cater to a world of weekending gabachos (French) and summering tourists. With every newspaper article raving about this hidden gem, every English menu, every time you're asked to pay before you finish eating, Donosti (that's San Sebastián, to locals) becomes more Disney-fied.  It's normal, inevitable, even. And it's good for the economy, one supposes.  I feel trite complaining about this, but it's how I feel and I am just thankful to have been here before the pintxos hit the fan. When Donosti was still slightly authentic.

BUT SERIOUSLY. $10 FOR A PINTXO? WHAT IS THIS, NEW YORK? I DON'T KNOW IF I CAN EVER GO BACK THERE.

(sheds a tiny tear)

Please comment below. Am I unreasonable? Equivocated? Romantic? Spoiled? Want to hear what everyone thinks about this.

365 tuesdays

Zeruko is known for its wide range of pintxos, both from the kitchen and on the bar. One of the best is the squid hamburger. Pieces of chopped squid, shaped into a patty and sauteed until golden, topped with a spongy squid ink "cake" a la Adriá. Watch out for the wasabi...

Part of the 365cities project.

Top 5 Pintxos of 2011

As promised, here you have the five best pintxos that I ate (and photographed) in 2011. Research was long, persistent, and arduous. I may (or may not) be the guiri who has consumed the most pintxos in all of San Sebastián (there are always Jon and Gabriella, who make a career out of it).

But suffice it to say, 2011 was a good year. Without further ado:

THE NUMBER 5 PINTXO OF 2011:

goes to: bar zeruko:::foie con queso de cabra (warm goat cheese and foie served on a little toast). It doesn't necessarily make sense-until, that is, you taste it. And however much you want to be mad at it for being so easy, so rich, so guarrón, you can't! Boo ya!

THE NUMBER 4 PINTXO OF 2011:

is a classic, but better than any classic version: dardara taberna:::patatas dardara (THE ultimate patatas bravas: lightly spicy red sauce, white sauce, and a roquefort sauce over fluffy yet crispy fried potatoes)

THE NUMBER 3 PINTXO OF 2011:

This was summer for me. From my neighborhood bar and, honestly, one of the city's best: hidalgo 56:::tartar tomate con antxoas marinadas (diced tomato "tartare" with vinegar-marinated boquerones, served with almonds, olive oil, fried parsley and a splash of cream). Many disparate elements, all working together, light but satisfying.

THE NUMBER 2 PINTXO OF 2011:

borda berri:::pulpo en vinagreta ahumado (octopus in pimentón vinaigrette, with chunks of membrillo). This pintxo had the whole town abuzz, with people flocking from far and wide to order and impress their friends. But let's be honest, all the credit goes to the cooks in the tiny kitchen who figured out how to turn the notoriously chewy cephalopod into a soft, tasty wonder.

And now, for my top pintxo of the entire year....THE NUMBER 1 PINTXO OF 2011:

the simple, the distinguished, and the soon to be famous, bidea berri:::pimientos del piquillo (fresh grilled piquillo peppers, generously doused in olive oil). More of these guys to come on a website that's kicking off tomorrow, and next year will be ALMOST as great as this blog for discovering the city's secrets. (Just kidding).

Urte berri on! Happy New Year!

pintxo astearteak (tapa tuesdays)

bar zeruko:::tosta de bogavante (lobster toast with cava aioli)

C/Pescadería, 10:Donostia-San Sebastián.

pintxo astearteak (tapa tuesdays)

bar zeruko:::vieira a la plancha (fresh grilled scallops served over a creamy sauce with toast and herb oil)

C/Pescadería, 10:Donostia-San Sebastián.