maison adam: st jean de luz, france

The macaron. It comes in so many shapes, colors, and sizes: from dainty pink rose-scented cookies to bright green pistachio with chocolate sandwiched in between. But at its most basic, the classic macaron is nothing more than ground almond, egg whites and sugar. Such a simple recipe leaves a lot of room for things to go wrong, which is why people often obsessively seek out The Perfect Macaron.

A family in Saint-Jean-de-Luz, France, found its perfect macaron recipe in 1660 and hasn't looked back since. Purportedly served to royalty, the recipe and process remain as well-guarded as the crown jewels.  They're proud of their history, and the wall of the main store on the plaza in the small seaside town is decorated by ancient photos. They have baked goods and chocolate that would stand out in any other setting, but next to some of the best macarons in France, they sort of seem like afterthoughts.

We had a personal guide take us around the store, and she offered us samples of the different ganaches and chocolates they make. The perfect squares of chocolate came in everything from green tea to Piment d'Espelette, made with chocolate from across the world.

After nearly an hour talking with her about the macaron making process and the store's history, we stocked up on some takeaway macarons, and set off to enjoy the rest of what Saint-Jean-de-Luz has to offer.

 

on y va: the markets of st jean de luz, france

 A return trip to Saint-Jean-de-Luz, a small coastal town on the French side of Basque Country, brought new revelations. We arrived on Tuesday morning, and on our way towards the center of town, passed through Les Halles, the morning marketplace. And....stop. With two other passionate food lovers, suffice it to say we didn't get very far. If my previous trip was the equivalent of reading the Cliffs Notes, this trip was like analyzing a single paragraph. I mean-I could wax poetic about the oysters alone for this entire post. But lucky for you I won't. Instead, I bring you exhibit B, this bag of raw milk:

Ooooh, it's so contraband it just sends shivers down your spine. If you're American, that is. All the better that it is brought to you in the industrial form of  a plastic bag. Bagged raw milk.  Oh, zee French.

The same stall featuring the raw milk had irresistible glass jars of yaourt au lait de brebis, a super rich, smooth sheep's milk yogurt. The top layer, tangy and thick, covers a pool of raspberry coulis. I think you're supposed to stir it up, but I couldn't bring myself to. That perfect white yogurt...

...was soon eclipsed by the Olive Lady, who offered us samples of her tapenade and tomatine (sun-dried tomato spread) while we browsed her wooden bowls of flavored olives. Spicy green ones, a la mexicaine, mixed black and green olives, tiny herbed ones, all of them irresistible.

And in the middle of all this, I haven't even gotten to rave about the produce. Pristine, all of it. Even more striking than what I see over here in San Sebastián. Favas, without a blemish. Pink and white radishes that look like cartoons. And strangest of all, tiny little strawberries. Not strange that they were tiny, but strange that the norm, what seemed to be the only acceptable strawberry shape, was at least half the size of the smallest American strawberry.

How can everything be so different, just 15 miles away?

Now, off to Italy, to see how crazy things can really get in a neighboring country....expect photos.

on y va: st jean de luz, france

A few weeks ago, we went to visit the beautiful French coastal town of St. Jean de Luz. It's just south of Biarritz, in French Pays Basque.  It's a gorgeous, charming resort town, with all the classic French touches and macarons and croissants coming out the ears. 

In winter it's fairly empty, but has a nice small village feel. I can't imagine how it is in the summer, when folks from deep inside France head down to vacation.

The city centre is gorgeous and quaint. The church is worth an entry, too.

There's a mini-mountain at the end of the beach promenade, which boasts similarly breathtaking views of the water that we have here in San Sebastián.  At the top are sculptures, a cute whitewashed lighthouse, and a cliffside walk.

And then, of course, there's the food. Typically French, and, as is to be expected, incredibly delicious. Financiers that make you want to slap yo mamma. Or your beautiful friend who is visiting you and serving as your French translator.

When it's time to leave the sweet tooth behind, your best bet is to stop into any of the sidewalk cafes, settle in with a bottle of Bordeaux or Beaujolais, and get some classic French bistro food.

A safe bet? The always delicious croque monsieur, which is to France what croquetas are to Spain: the no-fail, ubiquitious bar food. You can't go wrong. Then just sit back and enjoy the French coast and the incredible views of this tiny Basque coastal town.