a taste of país vasco

Funny that a place that I haven't left in nearly two years can be SO important to my palate that I can't wait even two weeks before I re-taste.

Hence a bottle of contraband txakoli, some roasted pimientos de piquillo, some shrimp bruschetta a la Goiz-Argi (grilled, with a warm pepper and onion vinaigrette), ensaladilla rusa (Spanish potato salad), and tuna with guindillas and olives.

On a cold Alabama night.

Out of place.  But deliciously appropriate.

Now, back to what I REALLY eat in Basque Country....Jumpers, Milka, and Martin Millers.

pintxoak etxean: anchovy fennel toasts

Today's a recipe day...and the recipe du jour is a snack for anytime you have some incredible anchovies on hand. This happens to me more often than it used to, now that Itsas Mendi began to stock their perfect, perfect anchovies at a wine store around the corner from my apartment.

When some friends came over for dinner last week, I decided to make a little snack that came together in the typical slapdash fashion.  Some fresh fennel I had bought lay unused, replaced by some surprise okra from the African store down the street. But you don't just let fresh fennel go to waste, especially not as it's on the Marti's Most Wanted List for Produce Not Usually Found in San Sebastián.  A little cabinet rummaging, and it turns out crunchy, marinated fennel is the perfect accompaniment to a salty, rich anchovy.

anchovy fennel toasts (tostas de hinojo y anchoa)

• crusty bread, sliced and toasted
• anchovies. and i mean good ones.
• 1/2 a fresh fennel bulb, diced
• 3 TBSP white wine vinegar
• 2 TBSP lemon juice
• fronds from the fennel bulb

Marinate the diced fennel immediately in the vinegar and lemon juice.

When ready to serve, top one bread slice with an anchovy or two, then a generous, juicy pinch of fennel. Top with some fronds, and if desired a bit of cracked black pepper.

pintxoak etxean: piquillo pepper, white asparagus and goat cheese

Sometimes you're hungry but it's raining, cold, and you really don't want to leave the house. Or maybe you overdosed on mayonnaise and just can't face another barful of the stuff. That may or may not be the situation I was faced with recently, but I still wanted to at least feel like I was going out to potear. So I took matters into my own hands and made a pintxo worthy of any bar here in San Sebastián: a warm, melty mix of the ubiquitious rind-encircled goat cheese, some very typical white asparagus, and the ingredient definitely in the front running for the most delicious ingredient from this country, the piquillo pepper. 

They're amazing right out of the can or jar, but warmed with a bit of olive oil and garlic they reach towards sublimity. And served with a dolled-up reduction of their juices....well.  And just like any other pintxo, they're just as good after a few hours of sitting out as they are fresh.

Another simple dish that smacks of Spain.

pintxo of piquillo, white asparagus, and goat cheese (pimiento del piquillo con esparragos y queso de cabra)

• crusty bread, sliced and toasted
• 8 pimientos del piquillo, in their juice
• 10-12 stalks of canned white asparagus
• 1 clove of garlic, smashed
• 1/4 cup sherry
• goat cheese, sliced in thin rounds

Heat a bit of olive oil over high heat. Cut the asparagus on the bias, each stalk into about three pieces, and let them sit on a towel to soak up a bit of the moisture. Once the oil starts to smoke, add the asparagus, allowing them to sear on each side. Salt. Remove from heat and set aside.

Wipe out pan, heat more olive oil over high heat, with the clove of garlic. Add the peppers, season, and allow them to get seared so they have color on each side. Remove peppers, then add sherry over heat and let it reduce a little more than halfway. Add the juice from the peppers (about 1/4 cup) and let it reduce until you have a slightly thicker sauce. Top toasted bread with cheese, peppers, and asparagus, (warming in the oven if necessary) then drizzle with pepper jus. Serve with parsley to garnish.

pintxoak etxean: potato salad

Anybody who knows me here knows I went through a rough patch recently: an addiction to mayonnaise. It was good (calamares bravas! yes! more!), bad (mayo-pepper-garbanzo-asparagus=not a good combo) and ugly (late night pizza a cuatro salsas).

But every cloud has a silver lining, and this one's is...potato salad! One night during The Mayonnaise Época, I had nothing in the fridge except some lonely radishes. Freezer check? Frozen peas. And there's always potatos....and so was born this delightful potato salad. Beautiful, with a bit of crunch from the radish and a bit of brightness in the peas. And a lot of mayonnaise.

potato salad with peas and radishes (ensalada rusa con guisantes y rábanos)

• 6 large potatos, cut into squares
• a cup of frozen peas, thawed
• 8 radishes, finely julienned
• 1 1/2 cups mayo (what can I say? that's how i like it. you can use less)
• fresh ground black pepper

Generously salt a pot of boiling water. This is important; this is where the potatoes get flavor. Cook until tender, about 7-10 minutes. Drain and put in a mixing bowl with the peas and radishes. Mix with mayo, crushing the potatoes a bit. Add pepper (and salt if necessary) to taste.

pintxoak etxean: quail eggs on potato coins

We had a special guest over for dinner not too long ago, and we wanted to have something to snack on that was spanish-y but a little different than a slice of bread with a tortilla.  I decided it was the perfect opportunity to buy the quail eggs I've been eyeing since I got here. 

I fried them up, used boiled potato coins as the base (in place of bread, which Chip and I both agree we are a wee bit tired of), added a slice of the tastiest chorizo Spain has to offer, plus a little mayonnaise/ailioli to lend creaminess to the pintxo. The result was a surprisingly delicious snack with a perfect combination of familiar flavors and a playful presentation. A party hit. Best warm, but also delicious after sitting out for hours.

quail eggs on potato coins

• a dozen quail eggs
• 3 small potatoes
• 1/4 cup homemade mayo
  
• 12 slices thinly sliced chorizo pamplona
• shaved semicurado cheese to top

Bring a pot of salted water to boil (throw in a bay leaf and some olive oil, optional). Slice potatoes into thin "coins" and boil until just tender.

Heat oil over med high heat and fry quail eggs; drain on a paper towel and sprinkle with salt.

Spread cooled potatoes with mayonnaise. Add a slice of chorizo, an egg, and a couple shavings of cheese.