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    Entries in martín berasategui (4)

    Wednesday
    May022012

    The World's 50 Best

    Once again, the time has come to announce The World's 50 Best restaurants, a list that may or may not have any basis in reality but that definitely has some heft in the world of cooking.

    And once again, Spain and the Basque Country sort of rule.

    In at number 2, right behind NOMA, is Celler de Can Roca in Girona. I find this wonderful, great, and also kind of funny, considering that this year in Gastronomika the chefs presented a Bloody Mary creation that suspiciously resembled a bloody feminine product. SICK.

    Can Roca hold strong in the same position as last year, as is the case with all the top three. And of course, coming in at number three is a personal favorite of mine, Mugaritz. Truly deserving of that spot.  Arzak also holds strong, at number 8, with Elena Arzak winning an additional accolade of Best Female Chef.

    Etxebarri, in leaps and bounds that can be attributed to word of mouth as well as alignment with current gastronomic trends such as using amazing product and  leaving well enough alone, comes in this year at number 31.  Martín Berasategui, on the other hand, drops to 67 in what could be attributed to alignment with now out-of-fashion gastronomic ideals.

    Finally, Quique Dacosta and Carme Ruscalleda's Sant Pau round out the list at 40 and 65 respectively.

    ¡Viva España eta Gora Euskadi! On egin!

    Wednesday
    Dec142011

    wine with lulu : ribera del duero

    After three months in this city, the sounds, smells, and faces are now far from foreign. What's second nature to me now will soon become a glimmering memory of a distant land, the my appetite for Spanish wine will inevitably persist.

    It was a weekend like any other in San Sebastian. By the movement on our street alone I could tell you the hour. A clockwork routine inside and out. Before 10:30am, window shutters are still rolled down from the night before harboring motionless bodies sleeping off food and drink. The ringing of a landline and clopping of the heels from the unit above means it's 11am or past. Time to venture out.

    A little side note: due to the painful process of typing all these write-ups on my iPhone, last week was to be my last wine. But Marti convinced my sour thumbs to type one more week -  So, back to our usual weekend walk to the vino shop. As I wander about like a lost sheep, examining the gaggle of bottles, Marti is lashing bottles off and on the shelf like a pro. She found a bottle from a region I had yet to explore and *bonus point - in a newly designed bottle. Sold.

    THIS WEEK'S BOTTLE:

    Name: Casa de Castilla

    Region: Ribera del Duero

    Year: 2007

    Grape: 100% Tempranillo

    Ribera del Duero is a reputable wine region in central Spain (north of Madrid) It's noted specifically for exclusive red wines made from Tempranillo grapes. These vines grow in high sediment soils along the banks of the Duero River, which is exposed to high altitude and extreme climatic conditions of little rain fall, hot summers, freezing winters. Casa de Castilla is of a Crianza age ( 2 years + barrel maturation) this bottle spent 12 months in French or American Oak barrels. Pertaining specifically to the name/label - you'll see the word 'Castilla' on a million wines here. For good reason, Spain is riddled with medieval castles. The wine label sports a guarding drum tower or for you chess lovers, a rook.

    Now, let's get down to brass tacks - this fancy new bottle. Who's behind the design? Well, a famous Spanish Chef who goes by the name Martin Berasategui. His new, highly marketable design has a base that serves as a sediment-capturing chamber. Pretty much the bottle acts as its own decanter. Ridding your bottle of pesky dregs means you can milk every last drop of that fine wine. It's also a brilliant strong hold for serving/servers who do the proper punt hold ;) We'll see if this diddy catches fire with it's coming of age. 

    Taste:

     Winter has been flung upon San Sebastian. The cold and dense seaside air give cause for achy joints and bone chilling nights. Lately, i tend to look more like a deranged hobo with my multiple layers of unseasonable clothing and fingerless gloves. Carting the bottle by he neck, i popped the cork in the comforts of a twin mattress I've inhabited so well. With an eager swiftness I began to pour a dark burgundy, vivid and clean. To the nose, a bowl of ripe fruit, woody with a complex undertone which easily puzzled my senses. To first sip, a surprisingly velvety smoothness. Quite opposite from the other tempranillos I've tried. A distinct earthy element, something unique which lingered in your nasal passage ( sounds silly, but true ) the smell consisted of hay and wood, like the smell of hot sun and sweet grass - mixed with munching on a brick of cheese. I dunno....this is the best way I can describe it. Anywho, it was delicious, full-bodied, smooth earthy goodness. It may have been clear of dregs but absolutely abundant with the ancient richness of the soil it hales from.

    My wine drenched heart will miss all that this country has to offer.  I'm so grateful to Marti who not only took a shot on her nanny to do these write-ups but for all she's shown me of this magnificent Basque Country...

    Lulu

    Tuesday
    Nov222011

    day two: San Sebastián Gastronomika 2011

    Gastronomika today was....Mexico, a pretty disappointing use of 3-D technology, the local STARS of the worldwide food scene (Arbelaitz, Arzak, Berasategui, and Subijana), award to Spain’s best sommelier, gin and tonic in the press room...

    But for me, the highlight was a tiny tertulia with chef Alex Atala.

    In case you don’t know him, he’s the guy right behind Grant Achatz on the world’s 50 Best Restaurant list. He’s a 43-year-old Brazilian chef and runs the restaurant D.O.M. in Sao Paolo. And today, me and about a dozen other young people were in a room with him for an hour, with free reign to ask him whatever we liked.

    I don't know about you, but in my experience its hard enough to get a chef to stop and sit for five minutes, much less have immediate access to him for an hour.

    He had all kinds of insight into Brazilian cuisine, as well as chef life in general. "It's half dream, half nightmare," he said. "The higher you get, the hotter they give it to you."  The way he framed it, his rise to fame was rapid and unasked for. To hear him tell the story of the night of the Top 50 Awards was amazing. He was waiting with baited breath to be awarded 20, and had virtually given up when they called him for number SEVEN.

    I asked him if he thought he had changed after the awards: yes, for better and for worse.

    I also asked him how daily life was in his kitchen. He explained that he also has a bakery (!), and went on to describe a kitchen that sounds just about heavenly. Everybody happy, quiet, etc. But that, he revealed, is about fifteen years after previously shoving people's faces into the trash bin. So, maybe that one's a change for the better.

    He's obsessed with Andoni (Mugaritz, what can I say, me too) and quoted him: "Truths are not absolute-they change with time. That's what makes them truth."

    To wrap up the tertulia, he confessed to us that he thinks Brazil has a long way to go, but that they have a rich promise that lies in their raw product, as well as their culture.

    These invaluable tertulias take place every day at Gastronomika. In fact tomorrow's is Achatz and Blumenthal. No way they'll let me into those.

    Monday
    Apr112011

    BasqueStage. DreamJob.

    So, as of late I have been extremely busy, and not just because my pareja has been kidnapped by musicians and I'm playing single mom for the 5th week now.  I've been working with a program out of the Basque Country called Sammic BasqueStage.  It's the most incredible opportunity...one that I would definitely take if I weren't in a different phase of life right now: six months' stage in Restaurant Martín Berasategui, compensated handsomely, to the tune of 500 euros per month, with a sweet apartment and plane travel paid for.

    YOU CAN STILL APPLY...until April 15, which is this Friday. Short notice, but totally doable and worth it. So get to the website, pronto!

    And apart from the money, you get to enjoy the best of the food the Basque Country has to offer, both in the restaurant and on your own time. PLUS you have an automatic platform to blog, the chance to build a portfolio of cooking videos, and those kind of things that are actually quite valuable.

    And you get to hang out with Chef Martín, who is the life of the fiesta.

    It's been great working with Athena Thickstun and Tracy Chang, showing them around the countryside and watching them explore and discover the cuisine I love so much.

    Another perk of the job is watching/helping them create their own dishes. Then eating them all up. I've been impressed with some of the plates they've created: above is Tracy's spin on torrijas, with distinctive asian touches. Then there was the txakoli gelee, which I loved for sheer aesthetic.

    Sous vide kokotxas...a modern spin on the classic kokotxas al pil pil. Complete with garlic chips, chive gelee, and cayenne pepper oil.

    I feel lucky to have been part of an amazing experience, and to watch two chefs evolve under my very own eyes.

    Plus, we are having a pretty good time. How can you NOT with these guys?