Retro Amusement Park, Basque-Style

Many people overlook this magical spot, an enchanting step into the past, right on top of the city of San Sebastián. It's a step into the past, a place that time hasn't touched.

Bumper cars, a non-frightening House of Terror, games of strength, a steep slide, lazy river ride....all reachable by an equally ancient funicular. Upon arriving at the top of Mount Igeldo, the views one is greeted with are worth the price alone.

Montaña suiza? It's a roller coaster. In most all languages besides English, a roller coaster is called a "Russian Mountain". Well, sensible dictator Franco wasn't having any of that back in the mid 20th century, so this roller coaster received the name "Swiss Mountain" instead. ¡Down with communism! Ps, could be one of the scariest roller coasters for sheer fearing-for-one's-life.

Dinner In Igeldo

Last week we had the occasion to dine in of my favorite spots of all of San Sebastián: Susana and Gorka's.

Ever since the first time our friend Josh allowed us to accompany him up to their house in Monte Igeldo, I have not stopped dreaming about this place. This post is dedicated to all people who know how to enjoy the delicious things in life (which is a way smaller number than you might imagine). How to enjoy it, but really enjoy it, savor every moment with the magic touch of someone who can stop time, just for a few seconds. 

I hope one day to be able to cook like Gorka.

This is ventresca de atún, or the belly of the white tuna that is prevalent here. All I can tell you is that was grilled and dressed with a sofrito of garlic. I can't tell you that you would ever have the same results with this simple, three-ingredient dish.

Fried peppers, cheese from here and Galicia, homemade chorizo from Galicia, tuna and ribs. And bread.

And the views aren't bad, either.

the merendola: a birthday fiesta

Last night, we had some friends over for dinner. I told them we had been to one of Buckley's friend's birthday parties, and they said, "Oh, a merendola?" and proceeded to name every. single. thing we had to eat at the celebration. To the letter. Sandwiches with nocillo and with chorizo (de pamplona, of course).  Fanta, and Coke (and the more creative children mix the two in what I swear must be an early socialization in kalimotxo kreation). A little cake, and chips. The only thing we were missing, apparently, were the traditional olives.

But there were sack races, overlooking the Cantabrian sea. There was soccer and champagne. And there were apples from the family orchard, baked with cinnamon, butter, and custard.

 Delicious. And above all, we were so happy and honored to be invited to hang out with people we love. Buckley, I think, wouldn't mind switching families for a day, a year, forever...having A + S as sister and brother, and S + beloved G as mom and dad...thanks you guys!

Please note the soccer jerseys. Birthday outfit of choice. Barca fans...