365 Tuesdays

We already know that Borda Berri is one of the best bars in San Sebastián. But the secrets of its menu still remain insider knowledge. They usually have a ravioli that changes according to the season. At the moment, they have a scallop saffron ravioli that you have to try.

Price.- 3,50€

Part of 365cities project.

Top 5 Pintxos of 2011

As promised, here you have the five best pintxos that I ate (and photographed) in 2011. Research was long, persistent, and arduous. I may (or may not) be the guiri who has consumed the most pintxos in all of San Sebastián (there are always Jon and Gabriella, who make a career out of it).

But suffice it to say, 2011 was a good year. Without further ado:

THE NUMBER 5 PINTXO OF 2011:

goes to: bar zeruko:::foie con queso de cabra (warm goat cheese and foie served on a little toast). It doesn't necessarily make sense-until, that is, you taste it. And however much you want to be mad at it for being so easy, so rich, so guarrón, you can't! Boo ya!

THE NUMBER 4 PINTXO OF 2011:

is a classic, but better than any classic version: dardara taberna:::patatas dardara (THE ultimate patatas bravas: lightly spicy red sauce, white sauce, and a roquefort sauce over fluffy yet crispy fried potatoes)

THE NUMBER 3 PINTXO OF 2011:

This was summer for me. From my neighborhood bar and, honestly, one of the city's best: hidalgo 56:::tartar tomate con antxoas marinadas (diced tomato "tartare" with vinegar-marinated boquerones, served with almonds, olive oil, fried parsley and a splash of cream). Many disparate elements, all working together, light but satisfying.

THE NUMBER 2 PINTXO OF 2011:

borda berri:::pulpo en vinagreta ahumado (octopus in pimentón vinaigrette, with chunks of membrillo). This pintxo had the whole town abuzz, with people flocking from far and wide to order and impress their friends. But let's be honest, all the credit goes to the cooks in the tiny kitchen who figured out how to turn the notoriously chewy cephalopod into a soft, tasty wonder.

And now, for my top pintxo of the entire year....THE NUMBER 1 PINTXO OF 2011:

the simple, the distinguished, and the soon to be famous, bidea berri:::pimientos del piquillo (fresh grilled piquillo peppers, generously doused in olive oil). More of these guys to come on a website that's kicking off tomorrow, and next year will be ALMOST as great as this blog for discovering the city's secrets. (Just kidding).

Urte berri on! Happy New Year!

pintxo astearteak (tapa tuesdays)

this one's currently the talk of town for its tenderness.

borda berri:::pulpo en vinagreta ahumado (octopus in pimentón vinaigrette, with chunks of membrillo)

C/Fermín Calbeton, 12::Donosti-San Sebastián

Welcome Back, Boletus

Mushrooms are a recurring theme in my life.

And Basque cuisine, in its commitment to seasonality, features them big time around this time of year. About this time last year, I was freaking out about their availability, their quality, and their bargain-basement prices in the market of San Sebastián's Parte Vieja.  Then, throughout the winter, I enjoyed with relative frequency this pintxo.

This year, a week ago, I found myself in a restaurant in the small village of Olaberria, presented with a plate of huge, roasted, tender melting chunks of porcini. Some as big as a newborn's fist. This had to be one of the best things I've eaten this year.

Here's to fall, to mushrooms, and to this place and all its marvels.

pintxo astearteak (tapa tuesdays)

borda berri:::risotto de hongos (risotto-style orzo with porcini)

C/Fermín Calbetón::Donostia-San Sebastián