Can Anybody Know...

...how much this place means to me?

I don't think so.

Calçots At Home

What's the worst thing that's ever happened to you because of a delayed flight? 

Despite the frecuency of my airline trips, I've been quite lucky up to now.  But this year, a delayed flight (not mine, but one of a friend) caused me to miss one of the year's most important traditions: the calçotada. We had the weekend planned in one of Spain's little coastal villages, but a late flight left us stranded at home in San Sebastián.

My friends being my friends, however, they gifted me a bundle of calçots upon their return to cook up at home (they also gifted me a tub of romesco, but we're going to pretend like that didn't happen since it somehow got devoured before it made it to the refrigerator).

What is a calçot? The calçot is an onion, a generic onion, pulled from the ground, allowed to sprout, and then reburied. The farmer then continues heaping soil over it during its growing period, preserving the whiteness and the slim shape, similar to a leek. Typically, they are charred over open fire and left to rest in newspaper, but you can create a similar effect right at home in your own oven, which is what we did.

The traditional dipping sauce served with these charred alliums is romesco. I have a version here, but lately I have been making with tomatos, almonds, and roasted garlic as well. Make plenty of romesco....it won't go to waste. Trust.

calçots at home

• one bunch of calçots (you could try subbing baby leeks or green onions)
• olive oil
• salt
• romesco sauce (one version here)

Preheat oven to 475º. Peel off exterior layer of calçots. Rub or rinse off any remaining dirt. Set on an oven tray, drizzle with olive oil and sprinkle with salt.  Pop into oven, rearranging occasionaly, until calçots are both charred and tender. Serve with romesco.

A Hike on Ulia

I've been SO busy lately. This is probably the longest I've gone in five years without posting regularly.

I'm sorry! Meanwhile, a photo from a hike right outside of San Sebastián. May this satiate you until I get to posting about artisan beer in French Basque Country, calçots, and other deliciousness.

zaldia | caballo | horse

Ode to Foie

Happy National Foie Day!

Craving that fatty good stuff. I think that anyone who says they don't like it hasn't tried it, or at least not in its two very different variations...seared or turned into micuit/pate. What's your favorite way to enjoy it?

A Copa Con...Jon Warren

Today's installment in the "A Copa Con..." series is a cornerstone of the food tourism scene here and also a good friend, Jon Warren. Jon owns a company that runs high-end gastronomic experiences here in San Sebastián, and I can honestly say they are trips I would take myself. This Englishman has a compelling story of rags-to-riches, Basque style, and he also makes a mean slow-roasted pork shoulder, which we enjoyed with a couple fine bottles of Rioja a weekend or two ago.

What do you do?

I am the Founder & Managing Director of San Sebastian Food.

What's something nobody knows about you?

  I was once invited to lunch and had the privilege of being seated next to Price William (the future King of England).  {oh my gosh he's so cute!!!! -me}

What are five things you always have in the fridge?
 
1. Salted anchovies -  delicious and versatile
2. Monte Igueldo milk - fetched in a litre re-cycled bottle from the fresh milk machine in Gros
3. Italian Parmesan - delivered via my mother-in-law on easy-jet flights
4. Norwegian salted cod - A semi-permanent fridge item generously gifted from some Norwegian clients last year.
5. English mustard (Colman's) - I am English after all.

The pintxo: traditional or haute cuisine?

Definitely traditional.

What is the hardest thing about starting a business here?

The difference in business culture.

I'm always interested when you talk about the moral dilemmas behind your work, like exposing the authentic culinary prizes of the city to paying customers who may or may not appreciate them. Where do you stand on this at the moment?  
 
I'm still debating this one. For example, there's a special pintxo bar I love to go to with my wife, Nicole.  It's packed with character and old-world-charm, simple yet delicious traditional food and the whole place has a unique atmosphere packed with its regular patrons.  I have never taken clients nor journalists there (except for you Marti!) {and I love it! -me} because I'm worried it would change things.  May be your readership can give their opinion and help me out!!?

One word to describe the state of Basque cuisine.

SOCIAL. That's the word that most comes to mind and one I've used ever since I moved to San Sebastian in 2008. From the markets stalls to the pintxos bars, ciderhouses and even michelin stars, underpinning it all there's Basque people happy to share, enjoy and celebrate their cuisine with visitors, friends and family.  I find Basque cuisine so very happy and content with what it is, without hang ups about what it should be or could be.  

What is one thing you would change about basque people or the culture?

Absolutely nothing. Its a huge privilege to live here and I wouldn't change anything.

Thanks to Jon for the wonderful interview. Leave us a comment on the above topics, and check out his awesome company!